48 hours in new orleans

We got to spend exactly two kid-free days in New Orleans in November 2019. We’d been a couple times but not in years and years and never not in the summer, when we’re absolute wimps about the heat down there and don’t enjoy our time as much as we should. Not this time. This time, we tried to pack in everything we could in two days and my liver might be mad at me for a while but wow, that was fun. This is what we did.

Friday afternoon

  • We went straight to our hotel,Maison de la Luz。我看了一下酒店的疯狂数量选择这一项,稳步拒绝每个前,直到我发现一个地方接近但并非法国区,一个看上去豪华,但不是在挑剔的或过时的方式,和现代的,但不是在特别barnwood-和黑板漆的方式,只是非常不关我的事。呼!有足够的选择,你可以挑剔的。不管怎么说,这个地方从各个角度惊艳。
  • Headed to theThe Elysian Bar一晚午餐。这里面的Hotel Peter and Paul, which was, funny enough, the hotel I’d read about (it’s a converted monastery) that piqued my interest in planning a trip. It was booked months out for the days I wanted, but it’s a also bit far from the Quarter, so we were happy enough to visit but not stay. The bar is on the ground floor of the rectory and spills out over a few stunning rooms. We ordered the smashed cucumbers and chilis, grilled okra and crispy eggplant, and fried brussels sprouts plus two spritzes and later, two tonics from their great menu.
  • Backyard wine and cheese at发酒疯, a blissful place — a wine and cheese store with a giant backyard with live music. You buy a glass or bottle, take it outside, and hang out as long as you’d like. They’ll build you a cheese plate from the pieces you pick from the fridge.
  • 如果你想有一个sazerac在新奥尔良,你真的应该在新奥尔良sazerac,你还不如去到非常老派,艺术装饰Sazerac Bar inside the Roosevelt Hotel。Needless to say, they make a perfect one.
  • Dinner atCompère Lapinin the lobby of No. 77 hotel. We’d watched Nina Compton on Top Chef many years ago, heard a lot about her second restaurant, Bywater American Bistro. This is her first. We, of course, had been snacking all afternoon and weren’t hungry enough for a full meal, but had a shrimp dish with chili-garlic butter I’ve been dreaming about since and a good-but-less-memorable pork one.
  • 星期六

  • Breakfast at莫莉的崛起和服务,一个有趣的,友好的,灯火通明的地方,你绝对不应该错过。I got the Grand Slam McMuffin (with “fromage Americain”) and Alex got the “3 items and 2 eggs aka ‘a plate of just the stuff you want'” including a side of some of the best collard greens we’d ever eaten, anywhere.
  • Did you know that longtime food blogger and three-time cookbook author乔伊·威尔逊lives in New Orleans and teaches cooking classes? Now you do! I invited myself over toJoy The Baker’s Bakehouseand it’s a sunny, wonderful spot.
  • A stroll along Governor Nicholls Street, which Joy told me was one of her favorite streets in the Quarter.
  • 你会最终不远处Cafe Du Monde, an 1862 cafe that is famous for exactly two things, always freshly cooked beignets (simple yeasted doughnuts under a cloud of powdered sugar that are still somehow not overly sweet, it’s magic) and chicory coffee, a very New Orleans thing. You should get both. The lines are always long but never take as long as you’d think. We took ours to go and ate them along the water.
  • We walked further around the French Quarter. Bourbon Street early in the day isn’t quite so messy yet, if you’re curious to see what it’s about without risking someone “partying” all over you.
  • Later, we got aperitifs (okay, gin drinks) and oysters atPÊCHE海鲜烧烤。Their seafood platters are famous and it’s a really lovely spot, but when you only have 48 hours in New Orleans, you have to keep moving.
  • We went toCochon因为我们听说了很多关于他们的烤牡蛎,但他们并没有让他们的那一天。取而代之的是,我们得到了大蒜酱虾的锅(一个主题,也许),这是在移动之前太棒了。
  • 我们有一个饮料和小吃(巴马干酪肉饼)在Jewel of the South在一个老房子,其中一个家庭的朋友正在一个非常华丽的小酒馆。
  • 甘蔗和表,以朗姆酒饮料和一个“老Havana vibe,” came recommended by a lot of people. The drinks were good but it wasn’t our favorite meal. It happens!
  • 你不能去新奥尔良不听爵士乐(或者,如果你不听爵士乐,你这样做是错误的)和典藏厅is one of the most famous places to start. Don’t let the name “Hall” throw you — it’s tiny and cozy and you should absolutely get reservations in advance so you can get a seat. We, however, did not and waited on line outside, getting into the 9pm show about half and hour later. Our tickets were standing-room only, and there’s no bar but this is New Orleans and you can get a drink to-go from anywhere, should you require one.
  • Second Line paradesare one of the greatest things about New Orleans — loud brass bands, some parasols, and a lot of people dancing down the street, waving handkerchiefs. If you’re out on a Saturday night, you might be lucky enough to see a few.
  • A few hours on Sunday

  • A classic New Orleans experience, we had jazz brunch atCommander’s Palace。It’s heavy and you’ll need a nap after, but you shouldn’t miss it, and if you must, at least go for the 25-cent martinis with lunch. I’ll let you pick. Note: Jackets are required for men after 5pm and all day Sunday.
  • It’s not a far walk, but a very pretty one, toLevee Bakery, which has naturally leavened breads and an assortment of baked goods in an airy space. Too full from brunch to try anything else, we got olive oil cake to go for the kids’ breakfast the next morning.
  • Central Grocery & Deliis famous for their perfect muffuletta sandwiches, which were invented there but became a New Orleans staple. We brought a full one to split on the plane but had enough leftover for some very lucky lunchboxes the next day.
  • A few places we might have gone to if we had more time:我自己保持清醒,当我因没有取得到每一个我们没能到位使这些列表。但!Turkey and the Wolf, Thalia, Coquette, Bywater American Bistro, and The Roof Bar at the Catahoula Hotel (for views) were near the top of our list, had we more time, and we’d definitely like more time for jazz on Frenchman Street next time — Upstairs at The Blue Nile, The Spotted Cat, and The Apple Barrel all came recommended.

    一如既往:Nothing, not one single thing, on this list is sponsored.