Last weekI childishly pouted that nobody really loves fennel salads and so many of you commented that you wanted one, I am delighted I’ve been given the external validation I require to share a new one here. This fennel salad is fromCafé Altro Paradiso, which shares a chef — Ignacio Mattos — with two other New York restaurants, estela and Flora Bar. What I love about the cooking at these restaurants is that there’s a quiet minimalism to each dish that belies the actual complexity of flavors. It’s particularly evident in salads. At estela, my favorite isthis endive salad，这似乎是生菜的最简单的堆，直到你找到大声味质感的堆及以下紧缩，舀到叶子上。这茴香沙拉看起来毫不起眼的平等出来时，光头灯泡的山。但是，它坐落在碎橄榄的辛辣混合泳，切成薄片茎，碎枝等，锐利的乳酪，柑橘皮，汁，葡萄酒醋，橄榄油，调味，我不知道我曾经想要停止进食。
Fennel is divisive. Olives are divisive. I know this salad isn’t for everyone — I mean, what is, truly, except puppies, kittens, and thriving postal service — and if you’re about to tell me that you’d like this except for the fennel and/or the olives, shh, you don’t need to because I already know. I’ll have something you like more next week. Everyone gets a turn. I’ve gone full Mom Voice, haven’t I?
But if you’re even ever-so-slightly on the fence, you should know that this one has converted many people. I tend to make it whenever suits us and keep it in two containers — the dressed, shaved fennel bulb in one and the olive mixture in the other — because the complexity is more noticeable when it hasn’t been mixed as long. Salads like this — that keep well in the fridge because they don’t enlist quick-wilting lettuces — are a key part of our summer cooking. Thesebean salads,broccoli salads,carrot saladsand more are the kind of thing you can pull out at the end of the day and serve solo or with something else:focaccia, a simple aglio e olio spaghetti, a grilled steak or chicken thighs, if that’s what you crave. I hope this makes its way into your low-fuss summer rotation, too.
Fennel, here and elsewhere:There are two more fennel salads here,one with blood oranges和一个用proscuitto and pomegranate, so they both feel very wintery. There’s also thisgreen salad with a fennel seed vinaigrette. Oh, and also a茴香籽冰淇淋我爱，即使别人做的少。最后，在William Hill橄榄球 , there’s a Fennel, Pear, Celery, and Hazelnut Salad, which I jokingly call the Haters’ Salad because there are so many maligned ingredients in it.
Six months ago:Pina Colada
One year ago:Salted Caramel Pretzel Blondies
两年前：Foccacia Sandwiches for a Crowd
Three years ago:Blackberry-Blueberry Crumb Pie
Four years ago:Summer Squash Pizza,桃梅尔巴冰棍, andChile-Lime Melon Salad
Five years ago:Raspberry Crushed Ice
Six years ago:Cold Noodles with Miso, Lime, and GingerandApricot Pistachio Squares
Seven years ago:Charred Corn Crepes,Burst Tomato Galette with Corn and ZucchiniandStrawberry, Lime, and Black Pepper Popsicles
Eight years ago:Pink Lemonade BarsandCharred Pepper Steak Sauce
Ten years ago:Everyday Chocolate CakeandZucchini and Almond Pasta Salad
Eleven years ago:芦笋香肠和面包丁andSour Cherry Slab Pie
Twelve years ago:Cantaloupe Salsaand梅花库亨andRoasted Carrot and Avocado Salad
Thirteen years ago:Summer Pea and Roasted Red Pepper Pasta Salad
Fourteen years ago:Huevos Racheros,Blueberry Crumb Bars,Napa Cabbage Salad with Buttermilk Dressing, andQuick Zucchini Sauté
- 1 cup castelvetrano (large, green) olives
- 2 large fennel bulbs, tough outer leaves discarded, bulbs, stems, and fronds separated
- 1/4 cup olive oil
- 2 tablespoons white wine or champagne vinegar
- Finely grated orange zest from most of 1 orange (1 teaspoon, but I never measure)
- Kosher salt, freshly ground black pepper
- 1 lemon
- 3 ounces thinly shaved aged provolone cheese, or another sharp cheese, such as pecorino (about 1 cup)
- Flaky sea salt, to finish
Halve fennel bulbs lengthwise. Using a mandoline or your exceptional knife skills, very thinly shave fennel crosswise. Transfer fennel to a second, larger bowl. Zest one-quarter of lemon over. Juice the lemon over it — it will seem like too much but it’s just right. Season with salt and toss to coat; add more salt if needed.
To serve: Spread olive olive mixture on a big plate. Top with cheese. Arrange shaved fennel over, hiding the olives, then season with flaky sea salt. Or you can just toss all of it in a big bowl, but where is the drama in that.