我最喜欢的菜谱购买去年的是Toni Tipton-Martin‘s禧:食谱从非裔美国英国威廉希尔人两个世纪烹饪。It’s one of those incredible books that even from the pages of the introduction quietly but irrevocably pivots some of the ways you think about food. Tipton-Martin talks about growing up in the Black Beverly Hills of Los Angeles, one of several communities in the U.S. that she says are rarely discussed in the media, “an omission of black middle and upper classes that serves to stereotype African Americans as poor, uneducated, and possibly dangerous.” Growing up, she had a diverse culinary upbringing, with her mother’s homegrown fruits and vegetables at the center, but she found that culinary heritage, and the larger story of the African American food that encompasses the middle class and well-to-do “was lost in a world that confined the black experience to poverty, survival, and soul food.” She found it frustrating. With this book, she hoped to tell a multifaceted story of African American food that includes, but also looks beyond, what people call Southern and soul.

烟熏灵魂股票培根交换 the vegetables 蠢蠢欲动的果岭 洗蔬菜

And that’s just the introduction. For each recipe, headnotes explain the historical roots of the dish, cookbooks and literature that lend greater understanding, and the ways creative cooks are treating it today. While I’d already heard great things about the Baked (Barbecued) Beans, Peach-Buttermilk Ice Cream, Biscuits, Benne Wafers, I still found deciding what to cook first nearly impossible becauseJerelle盖伊magnificent photos make what is already delicious even more luxurious, until I remembered that my husband has been patiently requesting that I make collard greens for, oh, about all of almost-17 years we’ve been together. I’m one of the women she mentions in the intro that didn’t grow up eating a lot of greens, but I’ve come to like them as much as he does. Collards are, I’ve learned,spectacularly easy to grow, cook, and eat— they get sweet and almost silky after a long simmer. Traditional, Southern, soul, or country-style greens — Tipton-Martin calls them a “totemic soul food dish” — are often simmered for a long time, until quite tender, in a broth of ham hocks and other aromatics called potlikker, but she says they needn’t be cooked forever, just until they’re as tender as you like them, so this recipe provides a range. Choose the state of doneness that suits your taste and the greens you have.

ribbon the leaves 剁碎茎 开始烩 finished greens making the cornmeal dumplings 羽衣甘蓝与玉米面饺子

Where I’ve been:这是题外话,那感觉就像监督不赶你。我已经打算这几招的日子领导到7月4日,去与排骨,玉米饼,烤豆,而且谈话什么美国是与我们所想的那样。但是,周末,纽约时报跑了一段,他们会问我写一些想法我大约啾啾前一周在结合我们许多人都在,当我们进入一个新的学年。I’ve since been on Good Morning America, The Today Show, CNN, spoken on a panel to the House of Representatives (!), as well as radio shows and podcasts, on phone calls with teachers unions and childcare advocacy organizations and it’s been an honor to get to speak up for the people (kids, parents, teachers, essential workers) I think I are being hurt the most by a lack of funding and job protections, but it’s also been very surreal, not at all the July I was expecting to have (which involved more orzo salads, s’mores, socially distant sandwiches, and frozen drinks, naturally) but as it slows down, I’m excited to get back to talking about cooking, too.


Six months ago:Roasted Squash and Tofu with Ginger
One year ago:Corn Salad with Chile and Lime
Three years ago:烤比萨and五彩纸屑党蛋糕
Four years ago:桃子和奶油蛋糕的兔子
Five years ago:Green Beans and Almond PestoandVery Blueberry Scones
Six years ago:Sticky Sesame Chicken WingsandBrownie Ice Cream Sandwiches
七年前:Slow-and-Low Dry Rub Oven ChickenandGrilled Bacon Salad with Arugula and Balsamic
Eight years ago:黑莓杜松子酒嘶嘶声andBacon Corn Hash
九年前:Skirt Steak with Bloody Mary Tomato Saladand蜂蜜,百里香,和海盐小面包干
Ten years ago:面包,黄油酱菜蓝奶酪和红土豆馅饼Zucchini and Ricotta Galetteand促膝
Twelve years ago:Chopped Vegetables, Watermelon, and Feta Salad
Thirteen years ago:黄婉君现金全美土豆沙拉and料理鼠王的料理鼠王



  • 2 smoked ham hocks or smoked turkey wings (see Note)
  • 2个介质洋葱,四分
  • 4个芹菜茎,包括叶,减半
  • 2个胡萝卜,修整并驻扎
  • 2 garlic cloves, peeled and smashed
  • 1/2茶匙黑胡椒
  • 2 bay leaves
  • 绿党和饺子
  • 1 1/2夸脱烟灵魂库存(上文)
  • 1/2 cup chopped onion
  • 1个蒜瓣,切碎
  • 1 pound collard greens
  • 2个小干智利红辣椒或1个茶匙碎红辣椒片
  • 3/4 teaspoon salt, plus more to taste (used 2t diamond in greens)
  • 黑胡椒
  • 1/2杯通用面粉
  • 1个1/2杯粗磨玉米面
  • 1茶匙发酵粉
  • 1 teaspoon granulated sugar
  • 2汤匙黄油
  • Salt, to taste

Make the Smoky Soul Stock:In a large heavy stockpot, bring 3 quarts water, the smoked meat, onions, celery, carrots, garlic, peppercorns, and bay leaves to a boil. Reduce the heat, and simmer, partially covered, until the flavors are well-blended, about 2 hours. The broth develops a stronger flavor the longer you let it simmer.

Remove the meat from the broth. When cool enough to handle, pull it off the bones (discard the skin, fat, and bones). Chop the meat and reserve for another use. Use a fine-mesh sieve to strain the stock. Refrigerate the stock until the fat floats to the top. Use a slotted spoon to skim off the fat and discard. Store the stock tightly covered in the fridge or freezer.

Make the Collard Greens with Cornmeal Dumplings:在一个锅里,把股票,洋葱,大蒜煮沸以上高温。减少热量,盖,煨在准备蔬菜。

Thoroughly wash the greens and trim away the stems, if desired. Discard the stems or chop small. Stack 2 or 3 leaves on a cutting board and roll tightly into a log. Slice the greens crosswise into 1/4-inch-wide ribbons. Place the greens and the chiles in the broth and return to a simmer. Cook, covered, for about 1 1/2 hours for very tender greens; you may cook them for less if you have young greens or prefer greens with more chew. Season to taste with salt and black pepper. Spoon out about 1 cup of the potlikker (the cooking broth) and set aside.

Meanwhile, in a small bowl, whisk together the flour, cornmeal, baking powder, sugar, and 3/4 teaspoon salt. In a small saucepan, melt the butter. Add the reserved potlikker, and heat to just below boiling. Remove the potlikker mixture from the heat and whisk half of it (1/2 cup) it into the dry ingredients, and more if needed, 1 tablespoon at a time (I needed almost the full cup to reach a thick batter consistency). Let stand 5 minutes. When cool enough to handle, use wet fingertips (or in my case, a big scoop) to shape the dough into 6 dumplings.


服务于格力ns and dumplings in bowls with plenty of potlikker.

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  1. joelfinkle

    I’ve made a casserole very much like this, with cornbread over the entire top.

    我不知道为什么,但我见过成长起来的唯一熟果岭菠菜 - 我爱他们。Yeah, I was brought up in a Jewish household, but we didn’t keep Kosher (although butterburgers, bearnaise on steak etc. were unthinkable, we certainly had bacon, pork ribs, etc.), but maybe my mother just didn’t like them (too late to ask). But I discovered a few years ago that all those sturdy greens are awesome: Lacinato kale is one of my favorite things to grow because it’s useful in so many forms. Mustard greens are much milder cooked but raw make a great spicy foil on a burger with bleu cheese. Hail greens!

  2. 卡伦

    This looks wonderful! My garden is over run with kale right now, how do you think this recipe would work with lacinato kale instead of collards?

    1. deb


      1. deb


      2. Elaine DeFelice

        As a note: i usually cook mine right out of the garden and I don’t notice any bitterness.

  3. 莎丽


    1. Malka


    2. Adrian



    3. Emily

      I would second the recommendation for smoked paprika, which I’ve used before to impart a smoky flavor when I didn’t feel like buying bacon for a recipe, but some of these other ideas sound intriguing! (Liquid smoke would make me nervous, personally, because it seems really easy to overdo.)

    4. Emmie

      We doctored some veg broth with parmesan rinds, dried mushrooms, kombu, and a touch of liquid smoke, and it was delicious!

    5. ginger b

      This was so. delicious. I made a vegan version with a combo of mushroom broth and homemade vegetable stock instead of the smoky soul stock, and added a splash of liquid smoke with the greens. Also subbed vegan butter, and only used 1/2 tsp chili flakes. Highly recommend for anyone looking for a vegan/vegetarian option!

  4. 内尔

    Welcome back, and thank you for your hard work and advocacy! I love your writing, whether it’s on banana bread or social revolutions. Thanks for cultivating a great space.

    1. sallyt

      NELL – DITTO to this!!!! I loved that you went viral, and that you can/are using your powerful good for change.

  5. Diana


    But I’ve never commented until today. You’re awesome, you know it. I hope you know it.




  6. Lora


  7. 肖纳

    At first glance, I thought you posted a picture of kallalo and fungi (pronounced foon-gee) – a dish I grew up eating in the U.S. Virgin Islands. Food connects us in so many ways. I’m looking forward to trying this.

  8. I just want to affirm the gratitude for your NYT piece! Your sentiment at the end fits our family well: “Even those who found a short-term solution because they had the luxury to hit the pause button on their projects and careers this spring to manage the effects of the pandemic — predicated on the assumption that the fall would bring a return to school and child care — may now have no choice but to leave the work force.” I’m leaving my job next month for a whole host of reasons, many of them positive, but one of them being that I can’t keep this up. Thanks for naming what so many of us are feeling.

    1. 卡拉


  9. 卡伦GOVER

    非常感谢你为你的纽约时报的文章。My husband and I have felt keenly the stress of school being closed, and it was already a system hostile to working parents–i.e., school ends at 3 but the workday goes till 5 or longer, not to mention summer break, which makes no sense in a post-agricultural society.

    1. 玛丽

      Schools should educate, not babysit. Already the day is too long to be about learning. I have witnessed so many parents sending their kids to school when they are sick because they have to go to work. Also, so many complaints when school is cancelled due to inclement weather because parents don’t want to or can’t stay home with their children. I do understand that it’s a problem for working parents, but it’s not a problem that schools should solve. Now we are in the middle of a pandemic and trying to do the best we can. Expecting teachers to risk their lives is not the answer. We can’t even get kids to keep their phones in their pockets. There is no way I’m going to trust them to be good about masks.

      1. JS

        一对夫妇的事情,玛丽 -

        First of all, with distance learning, it’s not just having to babysit your kids. It’s having to take on the full-time job of homeschooling along with the full-time job you already have, if you have the luxury of working at home. Obviously, if your job won’t let you work from home, then…what? Tether the kid to a tree?


        1. 玛丽

          我想你误解了我 - 我从来没有说过,这不是一个大问题,因为它当然是 - 这是一个大流行!我从来没有说过“放弃它扔掉或者想出来的”东西。我也想不明白,为什么你正在谈论的“搭售孩子床柱上”要么,约瑟芬,甚至不会开始尝试...。我买了你的snippy言论是由于这样的事实,你是既强调和疲惫。当然还有一个很大的问题。为了让孩子上学,它必须是安全的,但!我敢肯定,你不会想送孩子去上学,如果你认为它会冒着lives.This是一个巨大的问题,联邦政府需要补贴。
          正如您可以看到的,有几个学区already announced distance learning to start the school year because of the risks. So, I guess they don’t think attending school physically is the answer either.

          1. 约瑟芬

            我可能是有点累了,并强调,有些日子我的三个岁男孩3,6和8可以离开我的感觉就像是。大多数日子里,他们是有益的,热闹的,但并非总是如此。However I’m starting to feel snippy in regards to the people telling all working parents that they are “using school too much like daycare” Or as Nora describes it here, “dumping their kids on someone else while they go to work” Here I become frustrated. We are in a pandemic. Parent’s are trying to say, how are we supposed to go back to work while also watching our kids? And immediately people accuse us of “using school as daycare and not raising our own kids” How exactly does one not “use school as daycare?” Stay at home and never hold a job even while your kids are in school?

      2. 约瑟芬

        Or they were rich and were cared for by the governess. There is no magical time that parents were attentive 24/7 to their children. Even in the magical miss-remembered 1950’s when for a short post war time there was enough wealth in America for mothers to stay home and not work, they were not all spending their days making science experiments with their little darlings. So yes we all understand that the modern school system is actually partly day care for our kids. But it is better than it used to be. In france at the turn of 19th century it was common for working mom’s (washer women, maids etc) to either send toddlers to women in the country who looked after far too many children with a corresponding high mortality rate, or to leave them tied with string to the bed posts.

        1. Nora

          我同意玛丽的学校太frequently used as a way for parents to dump their kids on someone else for the day while they go to work. Now that kids are home parents face the reality of dealing with what teachers have to put up with every day; misbehaved and poorly mannered kids who just stare at their devices and have no desire to learn or pay attention. Sorry that you’re forced to spend time with your kids! How awful. Now maybe more parents can realize how they actually should be responsible for forming their children into well behaved individuals and not the teachers. Most people don’t realize that teachers have no one on their side- not parents and not even the school administration. Being held hostage by the school system is not up to the teachers- parents should remember that if they have a problem with how schools do things that they can go to the town and voice their complaints. I’ve read countless stories about teachers who currently have classrooms still open in other states and they end up sick or dying! There is no way that a bunch of teenage students are going to want to keep their masks on all day, so then you’re putting the teacher in danger who has no choice but to go in and be the only one policing these children. Schools should not be opening back up in the Fall. I do not feel safe sending my kids back to school when we live in a country that is currently being shut out by other nations because of how poorly we have dealt with this pandemic, and I certainly won’t be responsible for having teachers go back in classrooms before it is safe to return.

          1. Kasha


            1. Bev


              至于孩子们不守他们的面具 - 上学时间管理员长出了一对,期望每个人都戴面具式合规性,支持他们快速,一致的学科教师,并从他们的学区希望备份(即,没有无意义的宽容从父母的过度保护诉讼)。



          2. Anrev

            Bravo Nora. This is why our children are lacking in education and falling behind other countries. Teachers cannot teach, they spend the majority of their time herding cats so to speak. And God forbid they try to discipline one of the students, they are threanted with a lawsuit from helicopter Karen.

  10. Bridgit

    Thank you so much for your NYT article. I read it not realizing you were the author until part way through. I so deeply appreciate your thoughtfulness on all the topics you choose to speak on, from reducing sugar to racism. You do so with flexibility and grace. As a parent and teacher, I found the NYT article spot on. I’m very much looking forward to making this, just as soon as our market has collards.

  11. Leah Hooper

    感谢您使用您的平台来放大黑色的声音!谢谢你给托尼蒂普顿 - 马丁坚持,我们扩大了叙述,以反映黑的生活和经验,白人至上让看不见的。海岸。

  12. Kyle

    Make the chicken and dumplings. We’re a house divided…my sweetheart loves the rolled dumplings because they remind him of tamales…while I think the drop dumplings are just heaven.

  13. 阿什利

    Potlikker, in Newfoundland, is essentially the liquid that is comprised of boiling root veg, cabbage and salt beef to perfection… that liquid can either be used for gravy or to drink straight from the pot, depending on how traditional you are. It is the by product of cooking a traditional Newfoundland jiggs dinner. Lovely.

    These greens could be replaced for the turnip greens that are usually cooked for dins… instead of dumplings we would make a form of soda bread. These look delicious, and I’m eager to switch up a bit of tradition with this. I have an abundance of chard in the yard, think I could use that instead? Thanks!

  14. 利兹

    德布哦!I’ve been reading your blog since 2007 when I was 20, and I have to say I get worried about you when you don’t post for awhile :) So glad you were busy with making your voice heard and advocating effectively for working parents – I had dreamed up a worse fate for you or someone you love.

    感谢你给了我多年来和我们所有的在你的社区 - 并感谢您使用您的平台,彰显了非洲,美国的经验!

  15. Bill Wood

    I’ve been doing collards in the instant pot a few times. Instead of ham hocks, I’ve picked up some prosciutto ends/trimmings from the deli section of my green grocer, and trimming, then dicing those into 1” or so. Makes a good substitution, and it all cooks in about 45 mins.

  16. 奥拉Gourarie

    Deb, it was so wonderful to read your editorial in the NYTimes. You said things that need saying by all us who care about children. I’m reading it thinking, “hey, I know her! She’s my cooking friend!” You write as well as you cook. Thank you!

  17. 常春藤道金斯


  18. 米歇尔

    I read your article in the Times- thank you for finding the words I was not able to come up with. And also thank you for being so awesome that my sister and I email your recipes back and forth, while making “squee” noises :)

  19. Suzan Wachs Katzir

    Re: your op-ed. In the JOFA Facebook group, “Eve” sniffed haughtily that “education isn’t childcare.” Well, no, it isn’t, or ought not to be, but we’re over a barrel here the rest of us replied. No, no, said Eve, you should get a nanny like I have. Um… and how are we supposed to afford one? (Leaving aside the question of finding someone to hire.) Well! If you can’t afford one, you’re living above your means and should find a cheaper place to live. Oh, and get a better paying career. Oy. Talk about needing to check one’s privilege! A week-plus later and I’m still seething. My babies are in their 30s now, but still dealing with childcare issues despite well-paying careers.

    1. JV

      Well said. I think that what this pandemic has really highlighted is that the system was already strained, especially for women, and the pandemic just fully broke it.

  20. 成龙P

    First time commenter. I was raised that you use smoked ham hocks, shanks or Boston Butt (small smoked ham sold in the Midwest). You boil the meat, onion and red pepper flakes (to taste) for about 45 minutes. You then add the cleaned chopped greens to the pot, salt to taste, and cook on medium heat until done. My mother mixed mustard, turnip and kale (cuts bitterness of turnips) greens. Sometimes we add a small chopped cabbage to the collards when almost done for a variation. We use pepper vinegar or hot sauce to taste. Not quite as many steps and just as good. I really enjoy reading your emails. I always find something to smile about. Keep up the good work.

    PS We never had greens with dumplings but always had regular or hot water cornbread.

    1. 卡拉


  21. Mags


  22. Skatie


    1. Meredith

      I happened to have a bunch of collards (and kale) waiting to be used in my fridge when this recipe popped up on Instagram. I used bacon as it is what I had on hand. Did not use any chili flakes when making because my 3 year old is averse to spicy- but don’t worry, my 5 year old put plenty of Frank’s on his greens. This was an easy recipe (time required does not equate to “work” in my book) and turned out just as described. My dumplings were a bit dense, but my skills in that area are lacking and I likely overworked the dough. I did end up needing the full cup and maybe a little extra of the stock to make the dumpling “batter.” Greens were great, and the stock was flavorful but agree that with just bacon it likely lacked depth that a ham hock would bring. Regardless, my 5 year old asked for a second helping of greens and gobbled them up. That’s a win in my book!

      1. 芙蓉


  23. Elemjay


  24. JV


  25. Gablesgirl

    Deb, thanks for your good thoughts and commentary in the NYT. I am child-free and this an insightful look into the challenges working moms are dealing with. Love to hear more editorial from you.

  26. Alex

    布拉沃,德布!您对纽约时报的文章让我哭。你说的一切都是那么真实,我的家人目前的情况(两个工作的父母,三个孩子年龄2-10,和我们中的一个是谁基本上被迫辞掉了工作 - - 我!)深深的共鸣。谢谢你写那篇文章。

  27. RN

    I never comment, though always make your recipes. THANK YOU for what you wrote in the NYT and for your advocacy. You are amazing on all fronts.
    With admiration,

  28. 玛丽·汉诺


  29. Emmie


    For anyone looking to make this vegetarian(ish): a Parmesan rind broth with a dash of liquid smoke was absolutely delicious.

  30. 安娜小号

    Wow Deb. I’ve been a longtime follower and have made innumerate recipes but never thought to comment before. However I just want to say THANK YOU THANK YOU THANK YOU for your NYT article. As a single working mother (who works in healthcare of all fields!) I am so grateful that someone was able to express the anguish that myself and so many other parents were feeling in such an elegant and precise way. I am almost in tears! Thank you again, and definitely sharing.


  31. Meredith


  32. 辛迪

    Ohhh YUMMY, my auntie from NC, used to make this w turnip greens & pieces of turnip..ohh my..I’ll be making this!!

  33. Nicole Griffith

    Hi Deb I’m so hungry for this recipe- I have collards from the farmer’s market and I was looking for a plan and up popped your email… but there’s a wrinkle- I don’t eat meat, would you make it with veg broth or is too much lost in the translation? Do you have recommendations? Thank you! Nicole

  34. G

    Do the dumplings hold up if you put in the refrigerator – there are only 2 of us and i would probably eat all of them – i make collards all the time but never put dumplings on top of them – Looking forward to making soon.

  35. Dalnapen1

    Glad you are o.k., Deb, and sorry to hear about your husband. Pulling for you both! This is a stressful time–thanks for your ongoing efforts in activism for people of color like me, and advocacy for parents. Go girl! These collards sound like how we make them–only add a jalapeno either to the stock or to the greens, it adds such a nice flavor. Also we’d never throw away a ham hock–but play dibs on who gets to eat it! Be well.

  36. Jenna

    我做了potlicker提前一天,在烹调时间,以节省。我的芝加哥杂货店已经开卖熏火鸡翅膀,所以我用的肉汤。我会做到这一点再次 - 这是一个非常美味的液体!我提出的其他改变是我使用的Epicurious的食谱玉米面饺子,基于另一种意见是,这些人太辛苦了。我觉得有这么大的玉米面(原配方),玉米面不会软化或烹调过。我一直有一个问题瓦特/玉米面包,那里的饭太硬在最终产品中。在任何情况下,这本书听起来很惊人的,我把它添加到我的心愿!

  37. Kelly

    Excellent article in the NYT. As a mother who was just told our schools will be 100% online learning this fall, I feel I’m about to crater.

  38. April

    Wow. This Smoky Soul Stock….just amazing! The collards and cornmeal dumplings were a great combination. I made this with your oven ribs, and potato salad.. what a dinner. Thank you!


  39. Jason


  40. Cheri S

    This was absolutely the best collard recipe I’ve tasted. We got collards and turnip greens in our CSA box today, so I used them both so we had lots and increased the recipe by 1/2. Locally smoked bacon was our meat of choice. The cornmeal dumplings were new to me – they were so tasty! Thanks for another sharing another great recipe discovery!

  41. Gina L.


      1. Gina L.


  42. 安德里亚

    I also found my dumplings very dense and dry, which I fully admit may have been my fault. Any suggestions to lighten them up? I used a full cup of potlikker in the mix. We also used all the potlikker from the stock (none left over) and I still wanted more because of how dry my dumplings were. Having said that, the collards were so tasty and I would definitely make this again, just with more potlikker to go around.

  43. Blue_Alaska