我最喜欢的菜谱购买去年的是Toni Tipton-Martin‘s禧：食谱从非裔美国英国威廉希尔人两个世纪烹饪。It’s one of those incredible books that even from the pages of the introduction quietly but irrevocably pivots some of the ways you think about food. Tipton-Martin talks about growing up in the Black Beverly Hills of Los Angeles, one of several communities in the U.S. that she says are rarely discussed in the media, “an omission of black middle and upper classes that serves to stereotype African Americans as poor, uneducated, and possibly dangerous.” Growing up, she had a diverse culinary upbringing, with her mother’s homegrown fruits and vegetables at the center, but she found that culinary heritage, and the larger story of the African American food that encompasses the middle class and well-to-do “was lost in a world that confined the black experience to poverty, survival, and soul food.” She found it frustrating. With this book, she hoped to tell a multifaceted story of African American food that includes, but also looks beyond, what people call Southern and soul.
And that’s just the introduction. For each recipe, headnotes explain the historical roots of the dish, cookbooks and literature that lend greater understanding, and the ways creative cooks are treating it today. While I’d already heard great things about the Baked (Barbecued) Beans, Peach-Buttermilk Ice Cream, Biscuits, Benne Wafers, I still found deciding what to cook first nearly impossible becauseJerelle盖伊magnificent photos make what is already delicious even more luxurious, until I remembered that my husband has been patiently requesting that I make collard greens for, oh, about all of almost-17 years we’ve been together. I’m one of the women she mentions in the intro that didn’t grow up eating a lot of greens, but I’ve come to like them as much as he does. Collards are, I’ve learned,spectacularly easy to grow, cook, and eat— they get sweet and almost silky after a long simmer. Traditional, Southern, soul, or country-style greens — Tipton-Martin calls them a “totemic soul food dish” — are often simmered for a long time, until quite tender, in a broth of ham hocks and other aromatics called potlikker, but she says they needn’t be cooked forever, just until they’re as tender as you like them, so this recipe provides a range. Choose the state of doneness that suits your taste and the greens you have.
Where I’ve been:这是题外话，那感觉就像监督不赶你。我已经打算这几招的日子领导到7月4日，去与排骨，玉米饼，烤豆，而且谈话什么美国是与我们所想的那样。但是，周末，纽约时报跑了一段，他们会问我写一些想法我大约啾啾前一周在结合我们许多人都在，当我们进入一个新的学年。I’ve since been on Good Morning America, The Today Show, CNN, spoken on a panel to the House of Representatives (!), as well as radio shows and podcasts, on phone calls with teachers unions and childcare advocacy organizations and it’s been an honor to get to speak up for the people (kids, parents, teachers, essential workers) I think I are being hurt the most by a lack of funding and job protections, but it’s also been very surreal, not at all the July I was expecting to have (which involved more orzo salads, s’mores, socially distant sandwiches, and frozen drinks, naturally) but as it slows down, I’m excited to get back to talking about cooking, too.
Six months ago:Roasted Squash and Tofu with Ginger
One year ago:Corn Salad with Chile and Lime
Three years ago:烤比萨and五彩纸屑党蛋糕
Four years ago:桃子和奶油蛋糕的兔子
Five years ago:Green Beans and Almond PestoandVery Blueberry Scones
Six years ago:Sticky Sesame Chicken WingsandBrownie Ice Cream Sandwiches
七年前：Slow-and-Low Dry Rub Oven ChickenandGrilled Bacon Salad with Arugula and Balsamic
Eight years ago:黑莓杜松子酒嘶嘶声andBacon Corn Hash
九年前：Skirt Steak with Bloody Mary Tomato Saladand蜂蜜，百里香，和海盐小面包干
Ten years ago:面包，黄油酱菜，蓝奶酪和红土豆馅饼，Zucchini and Ricotta Galetteand促膝
Twelve years ago:Chopped Vegetables, Watermelon, and Feta Salad
Thirteen years ago:黄婉君现金全美土豆沙拉and料理鼠王的料理鼠王
- 2 smoked ham hocks or smoked turkey wings (see Note)
- 2 garlic cloves, peeled and smashed
- 2 bay leaves
- 1 1/2夸脱烟灵魂库存（上文）
- 1/2 cup chopped onion
- 1 pound collard greens
- 3/4 teaspoon salt, plus more to taste (used 2t diamond in greens)
- 1 teaspoon granulated sugar
- Salt, to taste
Remove the meat from the broth. When cool enough to handle, pull it off the bones (discard the skin, fat, and bones). Chop the meat and reserve for another use. Use a fine-mesh sieve to strain the stock. Refrigerate the stock until the fat floats to the top. Use a slotted spoon to skim off the fat and discard. Store the stock tightly covered in the fridge or freezer.
Make the Collard Greens with Cornmeal Dumplings:在一个锅里，把股票，洋葱，大蒜煮沸以上高温。减少热量，盖，煨在准备蔬菜。
Thoroughly wash the greens and trim away the stems, if desired. Discard the stems or chop small. Stack 2 or 3 leaves on a cutting board and roll tightly into a log. Slice the greens crosswise into 1/4-inch-wide ribbons. Place the greens and the chiles in the broth and return to a simmer. Cook, covered, for about 1 1/2 hours for very tender greens; you may cook them for less if you have young greens or prefer greens with more chew. Season to taste with salt and black pepper. Spoon out about 1 cup of the potlikker (the cooking broth) and set aside.
Meanwhile, in a small bowl, whisk together the flour, cornmeal, baking powder, sugar, and 3/4 teaspoon salt. In a small saucepan, melt the butter. Add the reserved potlikker, and heat to just below boiling. Remove the potlikker mixture from the heat and whisk half of it (1/2 cup) it into the dry ingredients, and more if needed, 1 tablespoon at a time (I needed almost the full cup to reach a thick batter consistency). Let stand 5 minutes. When cool enough to handle, use wet fingertips (or in my case, a big scoop) to shape the dough into 6 dumplings.
服务于格力ns and dumplings in bowls with plenty of potlikker.