[Welcome to the second episode of the副厨师长系列，a sporadic feature on SK in which I invite cooks I admire over to my small kitchen to teach me — and thus, us — to make one of their specialties. Spoiler: I’m the sous! Previously:制作马铃薯varenikiwith Kachka’s Bonnie Frumpkin.]
Almost without fail, the more bafflingly short an ingredient list and the more stunningly delicious the outcome, the more likely it is to rivet me. I don’t need all recipes to have 5- or 10- or fewer ingredients — I fare poorly under arbitrarily restrictive confines — but doesn’t it just blow your mind that you can make the apple tarte tatin above with only apples, sugar, butter, lemon juice, and a sheet of defrosted puffed pastry?
I’d begrudgingly resigned myself a life of tatin mediocrity when I spotted one of the most stunning ones I’d seen to date ona magazine stand。我有一种感觉，我知道是谁熟/称呼它 - 我全面的街道邻居。她的名字是苏珊·庞根和she’s a食谱作者和food stylist and whether you realize it or not, you’ve probably admired her behind-the-scenes handiwork on movies — see: that croissant scene in情况很复杂，oh and everything Amy Adams and Meryl Streep cooked in朱莉与朱莉娅。It was on the latter project that she got very, very good at apple tarte tatins. She explains “It was a quick shot, but I worked hard to get the right look and technique, so I could make it over and over again, and have it look exactly the same each time, which is essential for a movie scene.”
I invited myself over and watched her make one in her tiny kitchen, not even breaking a sweat, and it was perfect. I thought it would fill me with the confidence I needed to replicate it at home. But two years later, it had not. So, this fall, I asked her to come to my place this time, I took 200 pictures and almost as many notes. I then made four more without her and all except the one I made with what turned out to be the wrong apples, looked exactly like hers. With this I knew it was time to write what I hope will be the last tarte tatin recipe you’ll ever need.
1. The type of apple matters.You need one that holds its shape after it bakes. The internet is full of lists of “good baking apples” and “bad” baking apples and I cannot tell you which one will never lead you astray because there’s (believe it or not) a limit to my madness and I won’t be testing any recipe with every variety of apple. However, I was crazy enough to audition four here. I homed in on ones that I can buy at both grocery stores and local greenmarkets right now: Pink Lady, Fuji, Gala, and Granny Smiths. The first three worked great; the last one fell to mush. It may be because it was from a grocery store (I actually don’t find them at markets much) where they’re often非常非常老，或者它只是他们都错了这个食谱。我不认为它的价值，找出风险。如果用另一种成功使，那就大声喊出来（以及是否采购本地或从杂货店）的意见。
2.你不需要削减他们都疯了。I see recipes that call for halves (too big), quarters (too small), and some that call for thirds, which is about right but there’s no need to do exacting knife work to get every piece to be the same size, even if you have the patience to make finicky apple cuts. I’m using three sizes — a little less than half, a third, and about one-quarter in each that you see here — and cut them the way you would if you were snacking on an apple: imperfect and easy. A mix of sizes and shapes fits better.
5.由于＃3，＃4，你真的想用两个平底锅让您的他汀。Trust me — a person who will go to almost any length not to dirty two dishes when she could only dirty one — when I say that this is a place where it is unequivocally worth it. Almost every apple tarte tatin recipe makes life unnecessarily difficult by having you do the stovetop component (making the caramel and cooking the apples in it) in the same small pan as you’d might bake your final tart. Just look how many apples end up in the final tart, and that’s后they’ve shrunk. It’s very hard to cook the not-yet-shrunk apples evenly in caramel in a small pan. It’s much easier and will give you more consistent results if you use a big skillet. Then, arrange the apples exactly the way you want them in a smaller ovenproof skillet or standard pie pan. (And, it cools the apple mixture down a bit, essential because you don’t want to melt the butter in your pastry before it gets in the oven.)
6. Almost every apple tarte tatin recipe, including my previous ones, tells you to flip it out of the pan too soon.给它时间juic焦糖和煮熟的苹果es to thicken up a bit. I found a minimum of 30 minutes and up to 60 worked well. It’s not ruined if you flip it sooner, but the caramel will be thinner and more likely to run off and puddle.
Six months ago:Austrian Torn, Fluffy Pancake
One year ago:罗伯塔的烤大蒜凯撒沙拉
两年前：Endive Salad with Toasted Breadcrumbs
三年前：Roasted Cauliflower with Pumpkin Seeds and Brown Butter和苹果馅奶酪卷
Four years ago:Oven Fries和Chocolate Peanut and Pretzel Brittle
Five years ago:Squash Toasts with Ricotta and Cider Vinegar
Six years ago:菠菜和鸡蛋Pizzettes
Seven years ago:Apple Cider Caramels
Eight years ago:Homesick Texan Carnitas
Nine years ago:辣南瓜沙拉用扁豆和山羊乳干酪和Buckeyes
Ten years ago:烤鸡肉丸和盐渍布朗黄油脆皮黄柏
十一年前：白菜和蘑菇加莱特威廉希尔网上娱乐和Peanut Butter Crispy Bars
Twelve years ago:Cranberry Caramel and Almond Tart和Chicken with 40 Cloves of Garlic
Thirteen years ago:不是你妈妈的凉拌
An important note about checking the caramel’s temperature: It takes 1 to 2 minutes for the caramel to get to the dark amber color after you whisk it smooth — this is really fast. More than once, in just the 10 to 20 seconds I was fumbling with my thermometer (the temp reading won’t stay steady), it got too dark and smoky and I had to start over again. I highly recommend just eyeballing the color.
- 1 sheet of defrosted puffed pastry or a half recipe ofextra-flaky pie crust
- 7至8中大型粉红佳人，加拉，或富士苹果（3到3 1/2磅; 1.3至1.5公斤）
- Crème fraîche or softly whipped cream, unsweetened, for serving (optional)
Have the butter very cold and ready by the stove. Trust me.
倾糖成一个大的（11至12英寸）煎锅和发生在中高热量和煮，不搅拌，直至糖被部分液化，约4分钟。打蛋器，直到所有未熔化糖消失在焦糖和微调的热量下降到中等偏低。我们要做饭有点暗，但它会从这里快速进入。Cook until the sugar is dark amber, 1 to 2 minutes (you can test this on an instant read thermometer, it’s about 350 to 370 degrees F but read the Note up top first; a drop of caramel poured on a white plate will look dark amber). Remove from heat, immediately add butter and whisk to melt and combine. This will hold the color where it is.
Return to the heat and add the apples and cook over medium high heat. The caramel will seize up a bit and will seem too thick to coat the apples, but it will loosen up in a minute. Cook, gently stirring and turning to ensure even cooking, until apples soften and begin to turn translucent at the edges and are about 3/4 of the way cooked through, about 10 minutes. This is not an exact science; larger or more dense apples may take longer. On the flipside, if your apples are falling into mush here, they’re the wrong apples, it will not get better in the oven. Don’t worry about overcooking the caramel once the apples are in; this has never happened to me.
Roll the dough out to a rough circle about one inch larger than the pan. If you’re not ready to use it yet, chill until needed on a lightly floured plate or tray.
Top sautéed apples with the pastry round, tucking the edges in all around. Cut a vent or two in the center, and place dish or skillet on a baking sheet. Bake for 25 to 30 minutes minutes, or until pastry is nicely browned and apples are bubbling around the edges.
Run a butter knife around the edges to loosen. Let cool in the pan at least 30 minutes and up to 60 minutes. Peek under the crust if you can, or tilt the pan slightly, looking for evidence that the caramel and juices have thickened slightly. To invert, top with a serving plate and grasp the pan and plate tightly together as a unit (wearing oven mitts if it is still warm;) and flip quickly. Remove the pan. If any apples stick to the pan, just replace them where they should go on the tart. Serve warm, with crème fraîche or whipped cream, if desired.
If it has cooled completely before you serve, either return to the oven (if in a pie dish) or the stove (if in a skillet) to warm up and loosen the caramel for a few minutes. Leftovers keep well in the fridge, rewarm gently before serving.