这是真的：我拖着我的脚在写作指导，以我保持我的“储藏室”（我没有一个厨房）和冰箱14年了。我有我的理由，主要是我不知道我知道你的厨房需求。我的意思是，你不应该股价从谁爱Triscuits一位女士，你需要什么东西你要做饭，而不是一些任意的名单？也许你不爱Triscuits！（对不起，你错了。）购买厨房满人的想法别人的杂货非常反对，我认为任何人都应该的购物方式。我知道你的厨房将有机增长，并准确地反映你所需要的，如果你买东西要做饭，只要你想煮他们什么。其次，由于我的工作性质，在这里我有我的厨房橱柜和冰箱的东西绝对不寻常的量。这是完全有道理的我，而为他人做意义不大。On the flip side, I live in NYC and have grocery stores and Greenmarkets quite close, but also as a small kitchen with very few cabinets, meaning that not only can I not stock very much at a time, I don’t need to — I can always dash out for vinegar or dried pasta. This is not the way most people shop.
我最喜欢的菜谱购买去年的是托尼·蒂普顿 - 马丁‘sJubilee: Recipes from Two Centuries of African American Cooking。It’s one of those incredible books that even from the pages of the introduction quietly but irrevocably pivots some of the ways you think about food. Tipton-Martin talks about growing up in the Black Beverly Hills of Los Angeles, one of several communities in the U.S. that she says are rarely discussed in the media, “an omission of black middle and upper classes that serves to stereotype African Americans as poor, uneducated, and possibly dangerous.” Growing up, she had a diverse culinary upbringing, with her mother’s homegrown fruits and vegetables at the center, but she found that culinary heritage, and the larger story of the African American food that encompasses the middle class and well-to-do “was lost in a world that confined the black experience to poverty, survival, and soul food.” She found it frustrating. With this book, she hoped to tell a multifaceted story of African American food that includes, but also looks beyond, what people call Southern and soul.
One of the reasons it’s been relatively quiet here is because as meaningful (okay I’m being sarcastic) as it was when a shampoo brand I ordered from five years ago sent me an email last week about their support of the Black Lives Matter movement, I’m wary of using my platform in a way that places more value on the performance of allyship than the practice of it. If you’re concerned about what my values are, I spoke about them in greater detail in上周的简讯。It would ring hollow to pivot away from what I love the most in June — grilled vegetables, summer salads, icy drinks, and birthday cake — for a detailed look at, say,保释资金only to pivot back two days later because I wanted to make lemon bars. But it would have been disingenuous to feign interest in berry shortcakes as usual while my head waseverywhere else。So, I’ve been taking some time offline to process, learn, plan, and parent, until I could find a way to move forward in a way that feels authentic to my values and where I’m at, and to what this site has always been, a place where I hope you’ll find your new favorite thing to cook.
考虑到豆类沙拉 - 豆类罐头，好发季节上下的敷料，无论蔬菜切碎击中我的幻想 - 是我在我的后大学时代的饮食相当显著主食，我感到非常震惊，绝对震撼，认识到如何疏they’re represented here. In fact, there’sonly two而且他们在这个网站上最古老的食谱中。英国威廉希尔让我们现在解决这个问题。我发现爱丽丝的念珠Cannellini沙拉在年底Stained Page newsletter上个月 - 一个美妙的通讯，如果你感兴趣下面了解食谱新闻和八卦。配方是从一个新的名为迷人的食谱一顿美餐难寻：楼阁食谱从南方腹地英国威廉希尔由玛尔塔·霍尔·福斯，与艾米C.埃文斯在每个配方都有一个故事，从谁共享一个心爱的食谱一个古怪的性格南方各地的原画。I don’t usually look at bean salad recipes because I don’t need a recipe, I stubbornly insist, I can create my own on a whim whenever I want, but a few days after spotting this one — with an intriguing combination of roasted bell peppers, a sherry vinaigrette, and radicchio — a voice within me that said “maybe you can but what if you didn’t have to” grew ever-louder and I succumbed.
白天越来越长了,最近的水果ly emerged from the earth, rather than cellophane, is showing up at markets and in CSAs, and you know what this means, right? It’s time to resist the siren call of pie season and make a galette instead. Galettes are the very best way to bring pie into your everyday life — and yes, I believe your everyday life deserves baked fruit in a buttery, flaky shell — because everything about them is easier. A single crust requires less time and less work. Because it doesn’t have the responsibility of keeping pounds of fruit from soaking into a pie plate, a more tender and flaky dough can be used. The filling uses less fruit and requires less of a shopping commitment. There’s less flavor-occluding sugar and thickeners because galettes are more forgiving of messiness. You don’t need a particular pan or even shape; oblong blobs taste as good and work exactly as well as circles.
我的朋友戴维·莱博维茨，OG food blogger and nine-time author, wrote a book on the iconic cocktails, aperitifs, and cafe traditions of France, including 160 recipes,that came out in March。It’s the kind of book that makes you feel like you’ve hopped on a plane to fly to Paris to spend long, leisurely afternoons-into-evenings wandering, sipping and tasting this and that, something I had the delight to do差不多一年前亲自。该情况可能是可怕的，但感觉像一点点运气，他是创造了一本书，使我们能够重新创建这些口味和感觉，尽可能地在家里的。
For many years I’ve been fascinated by variations on yeast-free yogurt flatbread recipes (sometimes called yeast-free naan) that follow a loose formula of a cup of yogurt, a couple cups of flour, some salt, fat, and water. Sometimes there’s baking powder, sometimes there’s not. It’s kneaded together as you would a yeasted bread dough and left to rest for about 30 minutes, sometimes an hour, during which a transformation occurs and the dough becomes springy and smooth and very lovely to work with, like a freshly-opened can of播放，卫生署。Once rolled thin, they’re pan-fried, and look, they’re fiiine. But they’re never as good as I want them to be.
我不知道我需要一个新的烤鸡在我的生活时Helen Rosner纽约客的粗纱食品通讯员和全能迷人的人，在她的Instagram发布了几个周末前，她没有她平常的蔬菜把在她的烤鸡，所以她用白菜代替。Yet the very next evening, so was I, plus twice since then, and likely one more time before this week is out and I have a hunch I will not be alone. Rosner won a James Beard award for一篇文章I still routinely quote from to my kids (“but chicken tenders have no terroir!” because we live in opposite land where they don’t like them but I do — but that’s a whole other blog entry) because it delights me so much. A year ago she nearly broke the internet when she said she likes to use a hairdryer to getthe crispiest chicken skin。All I’m saying is that when Rosner talks about chicken, I find good reason to tune in.